Summary of Video: Three Different Ways to Make a Mortise and Tenon Joint

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Introduction

• Presenter: James from King's Fine Woodworking.
• Topic: Demonstration of three different methods to make a mortise and tenon joint.
• Focus is primarily on making the mortise since tenons are relatively easy.

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Method 1: Using a Mortising Jig (Hollow Chisel Mortiser)

Steps:

• Mark the mortise dimensions on the wood using a marking gauge (preferably Japanese marking gauge for clean lines).
• Use a mortising jig or hollow chisel mortiser, which combines a drill bit and square chisel to create square holes.
• The drill removes bulk material while the chisel squares the edges.
• The result may have rough edges but is sufficient because tenon shoulders will hide the mortise edges.
• Clean up rough corners with a square file (preferred over rasp for cleaner cuts).
• Emphasizes the importance of cleaning and storing files properly to prevent rust.

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Method 2: Using a Router with a Custom Mortise Jig

Jig Preparation:

• Made from scrap plywood and assembled with CA glue and spray activator for quick curing.
• Ensures the jig sits flush with the workpiece for clean cuts.
• Avoids over-tight clamping to prevent warping.

Cutting:

• Mark mortise location using a marking gauge.
• Use a 3/8" router bit (preferably Forstner bit for flat bottom) to make multiple light passes.
• Drill a series of holes inside the jig to remove bulk material.
• Chisel out remaining waste carefully by working backward along cut lines.
• This method produces cleaner mortises than the hollow chisel method.

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Method 3: Using a Router with Bearing-Guided Bit and Jig

Process:

• Jig with bearing guides the router bit along the edge of plywood to cut mortises in hardwood like walnut.
• The router is pivoted around the jig, holding it like a hinge to follow the guide accurately.
• Multiple passes are used to gradually reach desired depth.
• Ensures perfectly straight mortise walls.
• Requires router bit diameter to match bearing diameter.

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Making the Tenon

• Use a specialized sled called the "flagship sled" with removable zero-clearance inserts to cut tenon width quickly and accurately.
• The sled can also be used for picture frames, miters, bevels, and compound angles.
• Tenon cheeks are cut with a dado blade set to correct height.
• Test fit the tenon; slight rounding of mortise corners (using rasp) helps fit snugly.
• The shoulder of the tenon covers the mortise edges, so minor imperfections are hidden.

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Key Tips & Notes

• Always cut mortise first and fit tenon afterward for best results.
• Use marking gauges for clean lines; Japanese marking gauges preferred but common ones work similarly.
• Files and rasps must be kept clean and rust-free for longevity.
• The joint does not need to be perfect because tenon shoulders hide mortise imperfections, and glue surface area mainly comes from tenon cheeks.
• The techniques vary in speed, precision, and required tools.

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Summary

*James demonstrates three effective ways to make mortise and tenon joints:*

1. Mortising jig/hollow chisel for quick but rough cuts, cleaned up with files.
2. Router with custom jig for cleaner, more precise mortises.
3. Router with bearing-guided bit and jig for perfectly straight mortise walls.

Tenons are cut efficiently using a sled, with slight rounding on mortises improving fit. Shoulders cover mortise edges ensuring neat final appearance.

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